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Gel manicures have long been a go‑to for those seeking glossy, chip‑resistant nails that last for weeks. But recent regulatory changes in Europe have ignited questions about the safety of gel polish ingredients — especially after the European Union (EU) officially banned gel nail products containing trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO).
According to Dr. Melinda Steele, a board‑certified family, obesity and lifestyle medicine physician with Sharp Rees‑Stealy Medical Group, she’s not surprised by the EU’s ban.
“The EU takes a more precautionary approach to cosmetic safety, restricting ingredients based on potential hazard rather than waiting for clear harm in humans,” she says. “While real-world exposure to TPO from gel nails is likely very low, it’s also an avoidable risk given that safer alternatives already exist.”
What’s the concern?
TPO is a photoinitiator, a chemical that helps gel polish harden under UV or LED light. Without it, gel manicures wouldn't achieve that durable, glass-like finish many nail aficionados love.
However, EU regulators classified TPO as “carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction” after animal studies linked the ingestion of it in large amounts to fertility and reproductive issues.
But while the EU bans ingredients based on their potential hazard, U.S. agencies typically consider actual exposure levels. Experts say that exposure to TPO from gel nails is minimal, since the chemical is simply in the cured polish, not ingested or absorbed at high levels. As such, gel polishes with TPO remain available in the U.S.
Other considerations
Still, that doesn’t mean gel manicures are risk‑free, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. The group has repeatedly warned that frequent gel manicures can weaken the nail’s structure.
“Gel polish can be hard on nails, increasing risk of brittleness and cracking,” says Dr. Steele. “Some people also develop allergic skin reactions, which can cause redness and itching around the nails.”
What’s more, UV or LED curing lamps used during the application of gel nail polish pose another commonly cited concern: the increased risk of skin damage — even cancer. Although the risk is considered low, dermatologists recommend applying sunscreen to the hands before using the curing lamps.
Additionally, poor sanitation in nail salons can increase the risk of infections, especially from improperly cleaned tools or footbaths, Dr. Steele says. “Look for licensed salons that clearly disinfect equipment; avoid cuticle cutting, since cuticles protect against infection; and shave legs after — not before — a pedicure to reduce infection risk from tiny skin cuts.”
What about teens and gel nails?
With gel nails trending on social media, it’s common for kids and teens to also desire the stylish look. However, Dr. Steele recommends regular nail polish as a safer option.
If your teens are determined to flash the latest fingernail fad, Dr. Steele advises gel nail fans — of all ages — to:
Limit gels to special occasions.
Look for TPO‑free formulas when possible.
Avoid using at‑home gel kits, as they can increase the risk of nail damage from improper application or removal.
Give your nails breaks between gel applications.
Ultimately, gel nails can be part of your beauty routine. Simply stay informed and — as in most things — practice moderation.
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