FDA approves first new sunscreen ingredient in decades

A newly approved sunscreen ingredient could soon change how Americans protect their skin, and dermatologists say it’s a major step forward.

In June, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) added bemotrizinol (BEMT) to the list of permitted sunscreen active ingredients.

“This is the first new sunscreen ingredient approved by the FDA in over 25 years,” says Dr. Joseph Aleshaki, a dermatologist with Sharp Rees-Stealy Medical Group. “It’s been available in many other countries for years and is recognized as safe and effective.”

As products begin to roll out later this summer, here’s what to know about why it matters, how it works and what to look for.

A new era of sunscreen

Skin cancer is the most common cancer in the U.S., and daily sunscreen use is one of the best ways to protect your skin and reduce signs of early aging.

However, due to strict regulatory requirements, sunscreen options in the U.S. have remained largely the same. Now that bemotrizinol has FDA approval, you can expect to see more sunscreen options hitting store shelves.

“Bemotrizinol offers broad UV coverage and allows for more cosmetically elegant formulations that feel better on the skin,” says Dr. Aleshaki. “When sunscreen is comfortable to wear, people are more likely to use it every day and stick with the habit over time.”

How bemotrizinol works

Sunscreens protect your skin from ultraviolet (UV) rays, which are typically grouped into two types: UVA and UVB.

UVA rays penetrate deep into the skin and contribute to premature aging, wrinkles and skin cancer, while UVB rays affect the outermost layers of the skin, causing sunburn. Both types contribute to the formation of skin cancer.

Sunscreen ingredients fall into two main categories: mineral and chemical. Mineral sunscreens, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, sit on the skin’s surface and reflect UV rays. Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, absorb UV rays before they can damage the skin and tend to feel lighter and more transparent when applied.

Bemotrizinol is a chemical filter that offers broad-spectrum protection, meaning it helps defend against both UVA and UVB rays. Unlike currently available chemical filters in the U.S., which offer less protection against UVA, bemotrizinol provides more robust protection — providing more complete coverage in a single ingredient.

What makes it different

Because it offers features of both traditional chemical and mineral sunscreens, Dr. Aleshaki describes it as “a Goldilocks ingredient.”

Benefits include:

• Better UVA protection that lasts longer: It strengthens protection against UVA rays, which are linked to wrinkles, sunspots and long-term skin damage. Unlike some current chemical filters — such as avobenzone, which can break down in sunlight — bemotrizinol is more stable and helps maintain its effectiveness longer when exposed to the sun.

• Less absorption into the skin: Because bemotrizinol’s molecules are larger, it isn’t absorbed into the skin as easily. That’s important because some of the other chemical filters have been shown to enter the bloodstream at higher levels, raising questions about long-term safety.

• Gentle and blends easily: It tends to feel lighter on the skin, blends in without leaving a noticeable residue, and may be less irritating for some people. It can also be used on children as young as 6 months old.

Practice safe sun

The arrival of bemotrizinol marks a significant upgrade in sunscreen options for U.S. consumers. But while new ingredients can offer added benefits, the best sunscreen tip is simple: Use it regularly and reapply as directed.

That daily habit is especially important in sunny regions like Southern California, where dermatologists see higher rates of skin cancer. Dr. Aleshaki recommends choosing a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher.

“The best sunscreen is the one you’ll use consistently,” he says. “Find a formula that feels good on your skin and works with your lifestyle. That’s one of the simplest and most effective ways to protect your skin — now and in the future.”

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